10 Best Things to Do in Hakone Japan: Complete Guide (My 2-Day Experience)

When people talk about Hakone, it’s always “the onsen,” “the hot springs,” “soaking with Mount Fuji views.” And don’t get me wrong, these are lovely. But I’m going to be honest with you, some of my absolute favorite moments in Hakone had nothing to do with onsen although they are a godsend during winter. So I’m compiling this Hakone travel guide on the things to do in Hakone and where to stay of course.

I spent two days and one night in Hakone, stayed in a traditional ryokan with a private onsen on my balcony (which was incredible). But I also wandered through an outdoor sculpture park, bought black eggs cooked in volcanic steam, rode a pirate ship across a lake, and took one of the prettiest train journeys I’ve ever been on.

Hakone completely surprised me. It’s not just about the onsen. There’s so much more to do here, and that’s what this Hakone Travel guide is about.

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Things to Do in Hakone: My Experience

I spent two days in Hakone Japan, visited here from Tokyo on the way to Kyoto, and while the memories are still fresh, I wanted to write this guide about what to actually do here besides just soaking in hot water.

Don’t get me wrong, I loved the onsen experience, it was incredible, the warm water and especially if you go during cold days, it was bliss. Having that private tub on my balcony where I could soak whenever I wanted with a cold beer (I bought one from a convenience store) and mountain views? That’s a core memory right there.

But Hakone felt like more than just a spa destination to me. The outdoor museum, the volcanic valley, the pirate ship (yes, pirate ship), the impossibly cute mountain train, all of that made Hakone special, not just the hot springs.

So if you’re planning a Hakone trip and wondering what to do beyond Ryokans, this is for you.

How to Get to Hakone from Tokyo

Getting to Hakone from Tokyo is easy. Multiple options depending on your budget and how much time you’ve got on your itinerary.

Option 1: Odakyu Romance Car

This is hands down the easiest and most comfortable way. The Romance Car is a limited express train running directly from Shinjuku Station in Tokyo to Hakone-Yumoto Station.

I booked mine a few days ahead online. The Romance Car is lovely, spacious seats, big windows, gorgeous mountain views as you get closer to Hakone. I spent most of the journey staring out the window and taking videos.

Journey time: 85 minutes Cost: Around ¥2,330 (plus ¥1,320 for a reserved seat) Booking: Online through Odakyu website or at Shinjuku Station

TIP: Sit on the right side if you want the best chance of seeing Mount Fuji on clear days. I sat on the left and immediately regretted it when everyone on the right started gasping and taking photos.

Also, get the Hakone Free Pass. It includes the Romance Car journey AND unlimited transport in Hakone for 2-3 days. Saved me loads of money.

Option 2: Regular Train (Budget Option)

If you’re on a tighter budget or you have a JR Pass then definitely do this especially if you have a JR pass:

• Take JR Tokaido Line from Tokyo/Shinagawa to Odawara (35-45 minutes)
• Transfer to Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto (15 minutes)
• Total: About 1.5-2 hours
• Cost: Covered by JR Pass, otherwise around ¥1,500

Takes longer and requires a transfer, but it’s cheaper if you’re paying out of pocket.

Getting Around Hakone: The Hakone Loop

Hakone has a great public transport. I was worried about navigating everything, but it’s actually quite straightforward once you understand the “Hakone Loop” route.

The Hakone Loop Explained

Most tourists follow this circular route using different types of transport. It sounds complicated but it’s actually fun:

1. Hakone Tozan Railway: Scenic mountain train from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora (40 minutes)
2. Hakone Tozan Cable Car: Gora to Sounzan (10 minutes, very steep)
3. Hakone Ropeway: Sounzan to Togendai via Owakudani (30 minutes total). You’re dangling over volcanic valleys in a cable car. Brilliant.
4. Hakone Sightseeing Cruise: Pirate ship across Lake Ashi from Togendai to Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone (30 minutes)
5. Hakone Tozan Bus: Fills in gaps when needed

Hakone Free Pass

I cannot stress enough how useful the Hakone Free Pass is. It covers unlimited travel on all the transport I just mentioned, plus local buses and discounts at attractions.

• 2-Day Pass: ¥6,100 (from Shinjuku)
• 3-Day Pass: ¥6,500 (from Shinjuku)

The pass more than paid for itself. Without it, individual tickets for the ropeway, cable car, and pirate ship would’ve been over ¥4,000, and that’s not even including trains and buses.

TIP: Download the Hakone Navi app. Shows real-time transport schedules.

The 10 Best Things to Do in Hakone

1. Hakone Open Air Museum

Okay, so this was one of my favorite things I did in Hakone. I wasn’t expecting much from an outdoor sculpture museum (I thought it might be a bit boring, if I’m honest), but it completely blew me away.

The museum sits across these beautiful grounds with mountain views everywhere, and there are over 100 sculptures by artists like Picasso, Henry Moore, and Rodin just dotted around the gardens. You’re wandering through this gorgeous space with art installations popping up around every corner.

What I loved most:

• The Picasso Pavilion: There are over 300 works in one building.
• The Symphonic Sculpture: Stained glass tower you can walk inside. The light streaming through the colored glass is beautiful and makes for brilliant photos. This was just incredible, the one you see online.
• The foot bath: Yes, there’s a foot bath with views of the sculptures. I sat here for about 20 minutes with my feet in hot water, staring at art and mountains. Bring a towel.

Opening Hours: 9:00am – 5:00pm daily (last entry 4:30pm) Cost: ¥1,600 adults (20% discount with Hakone Free Pass) How to Get There: 2-minute walk from Chokoku-no-Mori Station

I spent about 2-3 hours here and could’ve easily stayed longer. There’s a cafe on-site too.

If you’re into art or just want a peaceful morning surrounded by beauty, this is absolutely worth your time.

2. Owakudani Valley & The Black Eggs (Highly Recommend)

Owakudani, the valley of boiling water and hell, is basically an active volcanic valley with steam vents, sulfur springs, and bubbling pools everywhere. The moment you step off the ropeway, you’re hit with the smell of rotten eggs (sulfur), but it’s fascinating. This is an absolute must things to do in Hakone. It was such an awesome and unique experience.

The star attraction is their Kuro-tamago (black eggs). Regular eggs boiled in sulfuric hot springs, which turns the shells completely black.

So according to local legend, eating one adds seven years to your life. Naturally you eat one or 2 or maybe 3, hopefully with a sound mind and body at old age too. My partner thought I’m ridiculous, but I’m planning to live to at least 120 now, again with sound mind and body (very important).

They come in bags of five for ¥500, and they’re still warm when you buy them. You peel off the black shell to reveal a normal-looking egg inside. Actually this was a welcome because we haven’t had much to eat since breakfast.

Opening Hours: 9:00am – 5:00pm daily (but can close during high volcanic activity) Cost: Free to visit, ¥500 per bag of black eggs How to Get There: Hakone Ropeway from Sounzan Station

The ropeway journey to Owakudani is stunning and this is a cable car ride. You’re dangling over the valley with volcanic steam rising below you and Mount Fuji in the distance on a clear day. We were quite fortunate it was.

IMPORTANT: Owakudani can close at short notice if volcanic gas levels get too high. Check the official website the morning you plan to visit.

Also, if you have respiratory problems or heart conditions, please be aware and maybe skip this one. The volcanic gases can be quite strong and abundant.

There’s also a restaurant here which was great, had time to chill here and warm up before heading out.

3. Lake Ashi & The Pirate Ship

Lake Ashi is this huge crater lake with Mount Fuji as a backdrop, and it’s one of those postcard perfect spots. It’s so fun, the ship is well reminded me of One Piece, pretend to be Luffy and the crew on a pirate ship.

The best way to experience Lake Ashi is on the sightseeing cruise, which uses these replica pirate ships. They proper kitted out the inside as well, windows every corner and you cna see the entire lakeside and also the famous Tori gate on the lake.

There’s also a throne. That’s all I’m saying.

Pirate Ship Routes:

• Togendai to Moto-Hakone: 25 minutes
• Moto-Hakone to Hakone-machi: 10 minutes

Opening Hours: First departure around 9:30am, last around 5:00pm (varies by season) Cost: ¥1,200 Togendai to Moto-Hakone (free with Hakone Free Pass)

I took the boat from Togendai after visiting Owakudani. You can sit inside on wooden benches or stand outside on the deck.

TIP: If you’re visiting on a clear day and can see Mount Fuji, stand at the front of the ship for the best photos. The mountain reflecting in the lake with the pirate ship is iconic.

4. Hakone Shrine & The Floating Torii Gate

Hakone Shrine is on the shore of Lake Ashi, tucked into this beautiful cedar forest. The famous floating torii gate in the water is what everyone comes for, and honestly, it’s so worth it.

The main shrine sits up a stone staircase through the cedar trees, and walking up through the forest feels really peaceful. We went there early, and it’s even more worth it, though albeit cold being in February. There were not many people around.

We walked straight down to the lakeside to see the torii gate up close first before the crowd comes for the photos. There was only 1 person there, waited patiently then took our spot, and we were quite fortunate there wasn’t anyone after us, so we spent sometime here enjoying the view, taking videos and photos.

The gate is partially in the water, and with the lake behind it and mountains in the background, it’s stunning.

Opening Hours: Always open Cost: Free How to Get There: 10-minute walk from Moto-Hakone Port, or take a bus

TIP: Visit in the morning before about 10:00am if you want fewer people in your photos. I went around 9:30am and it was relatively quiet. By 10:30am when I left, tour buses were arriving, and queue did start to form.

5. Hakone Tozan Railway (The Scenic Train)

The Hakone Tozan Railway isn’t just transport, it’s genuinely one of the highlights of Hakone. This mountain railway opened in 1919 and it’s the oldest mountain railway in Japan.

The journey from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora takes about 40 minutes and the train zigzags up the mountain through beautiful scenery. Every time the train switches back, the driver walks through all the carriages to the other end to become the new front. It’s brilliant to watch.

I visited in November, so the autumn leaves were incredible. The tracks wind through forest and you’re surrounded by red, orange, and gold trees. In June, apparently the tracks are lined with hydrangeas.

Opening Hours: First train around 5:30am, last around 11:00pm Cost: ¥400 (free with Hakone Free Pass)

TIP: For the best views, sit on the right side going uphill (from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora). I sat on the left by accident and spent the whole journey craning my neck.

The train itself is quite charming, old-fashioned with wooden interiors. Feels a bit like you’ve gone back in time.

6. Pola Museum of Art (If You Like Art)

If you enjoy art, the Pola Museum is excellent. Impressive collection of Western and Japanese paintings, including works by Monet, Renoir, and Picasso.

The building itself is stunning, all glass and modern design set in this beautiful forest. I loved how much natural light there was inside. The museum is designed so you can see the trees outside while you’re looking at art.

There’s also a nature trail through the woods if you want a break from art.

Opening Hours: 9:00am – 5:00pm daily (last entry 4:30pm) Cost: ¥1,800 adults How to Get There: Hakone Tozan Bus from Gora Station (about 15 minutes)

I spent about 2 hours here. The collection is manageable, you’re not overwhelmed by too much. Some museums try to show you everything they own and you leave exhausted. This one felt just right.

7. Hakone Venetian Glass Museum (Skip If Short on Time)

This one’s a bit more niche, but if you like pretty, sparkly things (which I do), it’s worth a look. The museum displays Venetian glass art in a building inspired by an Italian palace, complete with formal gardens.

I wasn’t sure what to expect, but I ended up spending longer here than planned because the glass pieces are genuinely beautiful. Chandeliers that look like they belong in a palace, delicate sculptures, loads of information about how Venetian glass is made.

Opening Hours: 10:00am – 5:30pm daily (last entry 5:00pm) Closed: January 11-31 for winter maintenance Cost: ¥1,500 adults How to Get There: Bus from Hakone-Yumoto Station (about 20 minutes)

The gardens are lovely for a wander too.

My honest take: It’s not essential if you’re short on time, but it’s a nice addition if you’ve ticked off the main attractions.

8. Narukawa Art Museum (For Japanese Art Fans)

This museum specializes in modern Japanese paintings and has spectacular panoramic views over Lake Ashi and Mount Fuji (when she decides to show up).

The collection focuses on nihonga (traditional Japanese-style paintings), which are quite different from Western art. Beautiful, detailed works featuring nature scenes, landscapes, and traditional subjects.

Opening Hours: 9:00am – 5:00pm daily Cost: ¥1,300 adults How to Get There: Bus from Hakone-Yumoto or Moto-Hakone

I didn’t actually visit this one (ran out of time), but friends who have been said it’s excellent, especially if you’re into Japanese art specifically.

9. Old Tokaido Road (For a Peaceful Walk)

The Old Tokaido was the historic route connecting Tokyo and Kyoto during the Edo Period. Part of the old stone-paved path is preserved in Hakone, and you can walk along it through beautiful cedar forests.

It’s quite atmospheric, you’re walking the same path that samurai, merchants, and travelers walked hundreds of years ago. The stone path is still there, worn smooth by centuries of footsteps.

The walk from Hakone-machi to Moto-Hakone takes about 30-40 minutes. Along the way, you’ll see the historic Amazake Chaya teahouse (more on that below).

Cost: Free How to Get There: Start from Hakone-machi or Moto-Hakone Port

My honest take: If you have extra time and like peaceful forest walks with a bit of history, do this. If you’re pressed for time, skip it.

10. Komagatake Ropeway (For Mount Hakone Views)

This ropeway takes you to the summit of Mount Komagatake (1,327 meters), which offers panoramic views of Lake Ashi, Mount Fuji, Suruga Bay, and the surrounding mountains.

At the top, there’s Hakone-Mototsumiya Shrine, which dates back over 1,200 years.

Opening Hours: 9:00am – 4:30pm (varies by season) Cost: ¥1,800 round trip How to Get There: Take a bus from Hakone-Yumoto to Komagatake Ropeway

I didn’t do this one either (only had two days), but it’s apparently fantastic on clear days.

Where to Eat in Hakone

Hakone isn’t exactly bursting with dining options like Tokyo, but there are some solid spots.

1. Tamura Ginkatsutei Honten (Gora) – Best Tonkatsu

This place does fantastic tonkatsu (breaded pork cutlet). The pork is juicy, the coating is perfectly crispy, and it comes with rice, miso soup, and shredded cabbage.

I ordered the regular pork cutlet set, which was more than enough food.

Opening Hours: 11:00am – 8:00pm Closed: Tuesdays Price Range: ¥1,500-2,500 Location: Right near Gora Station

There’s often a queue during lunch and dinner, but it moves quickly.

2. Amazake Chaya (Moto-Hakone) Historic Teahouse

This traditional teahouse has been serving travelers since 1648. Yes, 1648. Over 370 years.

I stopped here for a break while walking the Old Tokaido Road. The amazake (sweet rice drink) is warming and slightly sweet, perfect for a cold day. The mochi is grilled over charcoal and served with sweet soy sauce. Simple but delicious.

Opening Hours: 7:00am – 5:30pm daily Closed: Thursdays Price Range: ¥600-1,000

The atmosphere alone makes this place worth visiting. You’re sitting in a 370-year-old building, drinking the same drink travelers have been drinking here for centuries.

3. Hakone Bakery (Gora) Good for Breakfast

If you need breakfast or a quick bite, this bakery near Gora Station does excellent pastries and sandwiches. I grabbed a curry pan (curry-filled bread) here in the morning and it was delicious.

They also do good coffee, which is essential for me in mornings.

Opening Hours: 10:00am – 5:00pm Closed: Wednesdays Price Range: ¥200-600

4. Your Ryokan

If you’re staying in a ryokan like I did, dinner and breakfast are often included. Do NOT skip the meals, it’s quite the experience.

My ryokan served this beautiful kaiseki dinner with local fish, seasonal vegetables, house-made tofu, and about seven other small dishes. Each course was perfectly presented and tasted amazing. Breakfast was Japanese-style with grilled fish, rice, miso soup, pickles, and all these little side dishes.

Both meals were absolute highlights of my stay.

TIP: Many ryokans serve dinner quite early (around 6:00pm or 6:30pm). Plan your day accordingly. I nearly missed mine because I lost track of time at the Open-Air Museum.

Where to Stay in Hakone

Budget Option

K’s House Hakone

• Hostel near Hakone-Yumoto Station
• Mixed and private rooms
• Onsen on-site (brilliant for a hostel)
• From ¥3,500 per night

Having access to an onsen at hostel prices is a great deal.

Mid-Range Ryokan (What I Booked)

Hakone Pax Yoshino (or similar)

• Traditional ryokan in Hakone-Yumoto
• Indoor and outdoor onsen
• Kaiseki dinner and Japanese breakfast included
• Private onsen baths available
• From ¥20,000 per person

This is similar to where I stayed. I had a Japanese-style room with tatami mats and futon beds, a private onsen on my balcony, and access to larger public baths. Having that little private tub where I could soak whenever I wanted was brilliant.

The meals were incredible, and the staff were lovely. I can’t recommend the ryokan experience highly enough.

Luxury Options (If You’re Splashing Out)

Gora Kadan

• Former imperial villa turned luxury ryokan
• Multiple private and public onsen
• Exceptional kaiseki cuisine
• From ¥60,000 per person

I didn’t stay here (my budget doesn’t stretch that far), but I’ve heard it’s absolutely incredible.

TIP: Most ryokan prices are per person and include dinner and breakfast. Western-style hotels usually charge per room. So when comparing prices, make sure you’re comparing like with like.

Hakone Travel Tips

Here are all the things I wish someone had told me before I went:

1. Buy the Hakone Free Pass

I’ve mentioned this multiple times, but seriously, get the pass. Saves you money and makes everything easier.

2. Start early

Popular spots get really crowded, especially weekends. I started around 9:00am and had most places nearly to myself for the first hour. By 11:00am, tour buses were arriving.

3. Check the weather (For Mount Fuji)

Mount Fuji is famously shy. She’s often hidden by clouds, especially in summer. Best chances are early morning in winter or clear days after rain.

I checked the forecast obsessively before my trip. Still didn’t see Fuji because clouds rolled in, but that’s life.

4. Bring cash

Many smaller restaurants and shops don’t take cards. I always carry at least ¥10,000 in cash.

5. Pack layers

Hakone is in the mountains, it’s cooler than Tokyo, especially evenings and mornings.

I visited in November and it was quite chilly, especially on the ropeway and pirate ship where you’re exposed to wind.

6. Allow enough time

Don’t try to do Hakone as a rushed day trip from Tokyo. The minimum I’d recommend is arriving around lunchtime on day one, spending the afternoon and next morning sightseeing, then leaving after lunch on day two.

I stayed one night and that felt perfect. Two nights would give you even more time to relax.

7. Onsen etiquette

If you’re using public baths:

• Shower thoroughly before getting in the bath
• No swimming costumes. Everyone is naked. You get used to it.
• No tattoos (traditionally). Some places are relaxing this rule, check first.
• Keep your small towel out of the water
• Be quiet and respectful

If you’re nervous about public bathing, look for a ryokan with a private onsen in your room like I did. Problem solved.

8. Download offline maps

Phone signal can be patchy in the mountains. Download Google Maps for offline use.

9. Book accommodation early

Hakone is popular, especially during autumn leaves and weekends. Book your ryokan as early as you can.

I booked mine about 6 weeks before and the selection was already limited.

10. Check the Opening hours for the attractions

Always double check the opening hours and also the days you are going for some of the attractions just in case they are closed that day or closed early.

Best Time to Visit Hakone

Spring (March-May): Cherry blossoms in early April, azaleas and rhododendrons in May. Mild temperatures. Can be very busy during Golden Week (late April/early May).

Summer (June-August): Hydrangeas along the railway in June. Warm weather, perfect for hiking. Mount Fuji often hidden by clouds. Peak season, expect crowds.

Autumn (September-November): Spectacular autumn leaves in November (this is when I visited). Clear skies, best season for Mount Fuji views. Very popular.

Winter (December-February): Best season for Mount Fuji views (clearest air). Cold but usually sunny. Hot springs feel even better when it’s freezing. Fewer tourists.

I visited in November for autumn leaves and I’d highly recommend it. The weather was perfect, and the colors were incredible. Red, orange, gold leaves everywhere.

The only downside? I didn’t see Mount Fuji because of clouds. But that’s the trade-off. Autumn has gorgeous leaves but less reliable Fuji views. Winter has better Fuji views but no colorful leaves.

Is Hakone Worth Visiting?

Yes, absolutely yes, it was so relaxing, everyone was friendly. Ate lovely food, and snacks. Realised their 7 11 has drinks other cities don’t have. The lemon and honey drink is forever embedded in my memory taste buds.

It is touristy but again most of Japan is.

Staying in a traditional ryokan with a private onsen was a dream, I made sure to fit it around our budget and there are many different types here with different prices.

The Open-Air Museum was amazing, the volcanic valley with legen, wait for it… dary! black eggs, the pirate ship, the torii gate felt like an anime romantic moment, and genuinely good food as I said, and you’ve got a great two days.

Also it’s more of a relaxing vibe than the bigger cities like Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka.

The only thing I’d do differently? Stay two nights instead of one. I felt a bit rushed on the second day because I had to check out and catch a train back to Kyoto.

If you’re planning a trip to Japan, please add Hakone to your itinerary at least once in your travels. It’s easy to reach from Tokyo or Kyoto, and it offers perfect contrast to the busy city.

I went from Tokyo to Odawara then to Hakone then to Kyoto.

Just remember to book accommodation early, get the Hakone Free Pass, pack warm layers, and pray to the weather gods for clear skies so you can see Mount Fuji.

And if you don’t see Mount Fuji, don’t be too disappointed. Hakone is still absolutely worth it without her.

Have you been to Hakone? Did you see Mount Fuji? Let me know in the comments!

Courtney xx

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