I went to Lake Como for a summer wedding at Villa del Balbianello and it was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen in my life. Sun, water, good vibes everywhere, that insane blue water, swimming at Nesso.
So when I started looking into what Lake Como is actually like in winter, my first instinct was that nothing was ever going to compare.
And then I read account after account from people who went in December and came back saying it was their favourite trip they had ever done to Italy which got my attention.
This guide is for anyone who is wondering whether winter is actually a good time to go to Lake Como, what you gain, what you give up, and what it actually looks and feels like when the lake quiets right down.
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⭐️⭐️ ⭐️ Albergo Firenze: Best boutique option Check for your rates & availability
What Is Lake Como Like in Winter?
Is Lake Como Busy in Winter?
Not at all, aside from Como City which is the main city in Lake Como. Summer at Lake Como, particularly July and August, is heaving.
So many tourists (justified as I am one myself), and the trains can get super busy as you may know, and it is a very popular destination. Winter time not so much, aside from the locals who live there, there’s not a lot of tourism at that time.
It does get cold though so if you are alright with that, then it is an option is you happen to be in Milan and visit Lake Como for a day or two or to see the Xmas market.
Does Lake Como Feel Empty?
It depends where you go. Como city is still functioning as a working city all year-round and the Christmas season keeps it genuinely lively.
Cernobbio and Bellagio have enough open through winter to feel inhabited rather than abandoned.
But the smaller villages further up the lake, Varenna, Menaggio, Tremezzo, can feel very quiet midweek, with some shops and restaurants closing entirely until spring.
Definitely base yourself in Como city and make day trips to the quieter villages, rather than the other way round, and you will not feel like you have arrived somewhere shut.
Is Winter a Good Time to Visit Lake Como?
Depends really, I mean if you happen to be in Milan or around Lake Como, then yes of course, pay a visit and have a good time.
It can get quite misty at sunrise. Snow-capped peaks sit behind the villages. The late afternoon light turns golden and also check the sunset times.
People who have been to Lake Como both seasons often say the winter one is the more beautiful, just in a completely different way to what most people expect when they think of Lake Como.
But you may have to expect not a lot of the places would be open or at limited times.
What’s Open in Lake Como During Winter?
Villa del Balbianello closes its famous terraced gardens in mid November, though the villa itself reopens on weekends in winter with reduced hours.
Villa Carlotta closes entirely for winter. Most boat tours, the private ones that are the highlight of summer, stop running in November and don’t restart until spring.
The public ferry network keeps running, but on a reduced winter schedule with far fewer crossings per day, so checking timetables before planning your day is essential.
In terms of towns, Como city itself stays alive through winter, as do Cernobbio and Lecco. Bellagio has a decent winter core with some restaurants and shops staying open, and it is much quieter than its summer self in a way that most people seem to find charming rather than disappointing.
Smaller villages like Varenna and Menaggio are much quieter, with some businesses closing entirely until spring.
A rental car is more useful in winter than at any other time of year, partly because the ferry frequency is reduced and partly because having your own transport means you can make the most of the shorter daylight hours without waiting around for boats.
What’s Open in Lake Como During Winter?
Are Ferries Running?
Thankfully yes but not as frequent though. The main public ferry routes between Como, Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio all run through winter, operated by Navigazione Laghi.
Frequency drops from the almost-hourly summer timetables to around four or five crossings per day on some routes, so please make sure to check the timetable before planning your day.
The Lecco to Bellagio route is the exception, running only between late March and early November.
Private boat tours also continue operating in winter with heated boats, so the option of a private tour on the lake does not disappear with the season.
Are Restaurants Open in Lake Como?
In Como city and Cernobbio, most restaurants stay open through winter.
In Bellagio, a reasonable number keep going, though some close on weekdays. In the smaller villages, expect more closures, particularly midweek and through January and February.
The restaurants that stay open in winter tend to be the ones run by locals for locals, which is often exactly where you want to eat.
Which Villas Stay Open?
Villa del Balbianello is the one most people come to Lake Como specifically to see.
Its terraced gardens close in mid November, but the villa building reopens on Fridays, Saturdays, and Tuesdays through December, then on specific dates in early January, with full reopening in March.
Please check the FAI website before your trip since exact dates shift year to year.
Villa Carlotta closes entirely for winter. Villa Melzi in Bellagio follows a similar pattern. Villa d’Este in Cernobbio, which functions as a hotel, stays open and accessible for non-guests at its restaurants and spa.
Which Towns Are Best in Winter?
Como city is the clear answer for a winter base.
It functions as a proper city year-round, has the best Christmas events, the best range of restaurants, and is the most practical starting point for day trips.
Cernobbio is lovely and close, with Villa d’Este and a quiet charm that works well in the off season. Bellagio is quiet but not dead in winter and genuinely charming when you almost have it to yourself.
Varenna is the choice for maximum solitude and the most dramatic misty morning views, but go knowing a lot will be closed.
How to Spend 2 Days in Lake Como in Winter
This is the itinerary that comes up most often for first-time winter visitors, and it works well as a base for longer trips too.
Day 1, Como city and the Christmas atmosphere. Start at the Brunate funicular first thing in the morning for views over the lake and the snow-capped peaks before the mist fully lifts. Spend the late morning walking the old town and the silk shops along the main streets.
Have lunch at a trattoria. In the afternoon, walk the lakefront promenade and time your way to one of the viewpoints for the late afternoon light before it drops at 4:30pm. Aperitivo, then the Christmas market in the evening if you’re visiting in December.
Day 2, ferry to Bellagio.
Take the morning ferry across.
The lake crossing in winter, with the mountains above and almost no one else on the boat, is one of those moments people describe specifically when they talk about why they loved a winter Lake Como trip.
Walk the lanes of Bellagio, have a long lunch, and either take the ferry back or continue to Varenna for the late afternoon before heading back. If Villa del Balbianello is open that day, the ferry to Lenno adds one of the best stops on the lake.
If you want more on what to do in the wider area, my main Lake Como travel guide covers everything across all seasons.
Where to Stay in Lake Como in Winter
Best Town Overall: Como City
The most practical winter base and the one I’d choose first. Everything stays open, the Christmas events are right there, and hotels drop their prices significantly compared to summer, meaning you can access places that would be very expensive in July at reasonable rates.
Hotel Barchetta Excelsior is the best positioned mid-range hotel in Como city, right on the lakefront with ferry access a few minutes from the front door. Rooms with lake views, a good breakfast included, and the kind of location that makes every day easy to start.
Check for your availabilities at Hotel Barchettsa Excelsior
Hotel Firenze is the budget option that consistently comes up with good reviews for location and value, a short walk from the lake and the Cathedral, perfectly placed for exploring the old town on foot.
Check for your availabilities at Hotel Firenze Como
My full guide to where to stay in Como City goes into more detail on options across all budgets.
Best for Luxury: Cernobbio
Villa d’Este in Cernobbio is one of the most famous hotels in Italy, and in winter it becomes genuinely bookable rather than just aspirational.
The gardens are still beautiful, the spa is exceptional, and having it with a fraction of the summer crowd is the version regulars say they prefer.
Check for your availabilities at Villa d’Este Cernobbio
Best for Couples: Bellagio
If atmosphere is the priority, Bellagio in winter is hard to beat. The village goes quiet, the views stay extraordinary, and having those famous cobbled lanes almost to yourselves is genuinely memorable.
Hotel du Lac in Bellagio has lakefront rooms with balconies and stays open through winter, making it the most reliable choice for a couple wanting to base themselves in the village itself.
Check for your availabilities at Hotel du Lac Bellagio
My full guide to where to stay in Bellagio goes into more detail on options across all budgets.
Best for Quiet Scenery: Varenna
Varenna is the most atmospheric winter choice if you specifically want quiet. The village is small, parts of it close in winter, and the waterfront is almost entirely yours on a midweek January morning.
Hotel Royal Victoria has been on the lakefront in Varenna since 1838 and stays open through much of the winter season.
Check for your availabilities at Hotel Royal Victoria Varenna
My full guide to where to stay in Varenna goes into more detail on options across all budgets.
Best Things to Do in Lake Como in Winter
Visit Bellagio Without the Summer Crowds
Bellagio in July is beautiful but full of tourist, with tour groups filling the lanes from mid morning.
In December or January you walk straight through the village, take your time, sit at a cafe on the waterfront, and actually enjoy the place. It is much quieter but also mainly cause most places are not open as well.
Take the ferry from Como, have lunch, wander for a few hours, and catch the last ferry back before dark.
Book a private boat tour, either Lake Como Premium Shared Boat Tour • 1 Hour Shared Tour or Lake Como Private Wooden Boat Tour & Italian Glamou
Explore Villa del Balbianello
The gardens are closed but the villa opens on winter weekends with reduced hours. Even without full garden access, the building and terrace views are extraordinary, and in winter you might genuinely have them almost to yourself.
This is where they filmed Casino Royale and parts of Star Wars. Check the FAI website for current weekend opening dates before you go.
Take the Brunate Funicular
Runs year-round and takes you up in about seven minutes.
In summer the viewpoint is crowded. In winter it is often just you and the view, the lake stretching out below and the mountains snow-capped above. Go on a clear morning, bring coffee, and stay until you are properly cold.
Visit the Christmas Markets
The Città dei Balocchi in Como city runs from late November into early January and is one of the better Christmas experiences in northern Italy. Local silk, honey, cheese, and crafts rather than the usual generic market fare. Bellagio and Cernobbio both run their own smaller versions. If you are visiting in December, build an evening around the market, the lights, and a mulled wine on the waterfront.
Ski at Piani di Bobbio
This surprises most people. Piani di Bobbio, about 25 kilometres from the lake near Barzio in Lecco province, has 35 kilometres of slopes running from December through to early April. A gondola from Barzio gets you up to the ski area in ten minutes.
Better suited to beginners and intermediates than experts, but as a day out from the lake it genuinely changes the shape of a winter trip and is the kind of thing most visitors never think to do.
Take a Day Trip to Milan
An hour by train from Como. The Duomo, the Brera district, the Navigli canals, and some of the best aperitivo in Italy.
In January the sales are running and the city is less touristed than summer.
Cross the Border to Lugano, Switzerland
About an hour and a half from Como by car or scenic train.
Switzerland in winter, chocolate, cheese, mountain backdrop, and a completely different pace, is a nice contrast to Italy and one of those additions that makes a winter trip feel more interesting than a standard lake holiday.
Pros and Cons of Visiting Lake Como in Winter
Pros
- Hotel prices drop 40 to 60 percent compared to peak summer rates
- No queues for ferries, restaurants, or viewpoints
- The Christmas atmosphere in December is genuine and not generic
- The lake in winter has a different beauty, misty, dramatic, and quieter, that a lot of people prefer
- Private boat tours still operate with heated boats
Cons
- Villa gardens are mostly closed from November
- Ferry frequency drops significantly, especially January and February
- Some villages, particularly Varenna and Menaggio, can feel very quiet midweek
- Genuinely cold, especially evenings, and the damp makes it feel colder than it reads
- Daylight is short with sunset at around 4:30pm in December
Best Time to Visit Lake Como: Winter vs Autumn vs Summer
Winter vs Autumn
Autumn is probably the more complete experience for most people.
The weather is still warm enough for the full ferry experience, the villa gardens are still open, you get the famous foliage on the hillsides, and the crowds have already thinned from peak summer.
October in particular gives you almost everything summer offers at a fraction of the intensity.
Winter is for people who specifically want the Christmas atmosphere or the maximum quiet and minimum cost. Given a free choice between the two, late October edges winter for most travellers.
Winter vs Summer
Summer is Lake Como at full volume: everything open, boats everywhere, warm evenings on the terrace, the gardens at their absolute best, and prices to match.
Winter is the same lake on silent. Both are completely valid trips but they are genuinely different experiences, and which one is right for you comes down to what you want from the place.
Which Season is Best?
- First-time visitors who want the classic experience: late May or early June
- First-time visitors who want fewer crowds: October
- Couples wanting atmosphere and value: December
- Anyone wanting maximum quiet: January or February
- Summer energy and don’t mind sharing it: July or August
FAQs About Lake Como in Winter
Does It Snow in Lake Como?
Snow in the lakeside towns is rare. The mountain peaks behind the lake get properly snow-capped through winter, which makes for a dramatic backdrop on clear days, but the towns themselves rarely see snowfall. If you want to be in actual snow, Piani di Bobbio is the closest ski resort at about 25 kilometres from the lake.
Can You Swim in Winter?
No, not comfortably. The lake temperature drops too low for swimming through winter. If swimming is a core part of your trip, come between June and September when the water is warm enough to enjoy.
Are Ferries Running in Winter?
Yes, but on a reduced schedule. The main routes between Como, Bellagio, Varenna, and Menaggio all run through winter. The Lecco to Bellagio route does not run between November and late March. Private heated boat tours also continue operating. Check the Navigazione Laghi website for current winter timetables before planning your days.
Is Bellagio Worth Visiting in Winter?
Yes, and the case for it in winter is arguably stronger than in summer. The views are still extraordinary, a handful of restaurants and shops stay open, and having the village lanes almost to yourself is something most summer visitors never get to experience.
Is Lake Como Expensive in Winter?
Relative to summer, no. Accommodation rates drop 40 to 60 percent. Restaurants are quieter and less pressured. It is still northern Italy so it is not cheap in absolute terms, but winter is when Lake Como becomes genuinely accessible to people who would never book it in July.
Final Thoughts: Is Lake Como Worth Visiting in Winter?
If you go in summer, you see Lake Como at its most famous. If you go in winter, you see it at its most real.
The people who have done both tend to say the same thing: summer is stunning, but winter is the version that stays with you.
The mist on the water at 8am. The empty promenade. A long lunch in a local restaurant where nobody is in a hurry. The Christmas lights reflecting off the lake in December. None of that exists in July.
It is not the right trip for everyone. If the villas, the boat tours, and the warm evening terrace are what you came for, wait for a warmer month.
But if a quieter, more atmospheric, significantly cheaper version of one of the most beautiful places in Italy sounds like exactly what you need right now, December delivers all of it.
Courtney xx
If you’re planning your trip around Lake Como, these Lake Como guides will help you in planning your trip:
Best things to do in Varenna, Lake Como Italy 2026 + One Day Itinerary
Best things to do in Como City, Lake Como Italy + One Day Itinerary
Where to Stay in Como City (2026): The Areas Worth Booking and the Ones I’d Skip
Best things to do in Bellagio, Lake Como Italy 2026 + One Day Itinerary
Lake Como Travel Guide 2026: Your Next Dream Summer Vacation
Villa del Balbianello: Is It Actually Worth the Hype? (2026 Guide)
9 Best Towns in Lake Como (2026): Where to Visit + The One Most Tourists Miss
WhatsupCourtney
Hey! I’m Courtney, creator behind the travel and food site WhatsupCourtney and @heywhatsupcourtney on socials.
If you want trips that feels good while you’re there without the stress and to find a way to go on trips more often, you’re in the right place.You will find detailed travel itineraries to destination guides and food worth seeking out, everything here is built to help you spend less time planning and more time experiencing the places you visit.
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